'Ode to Autumn' Mixed Case

Autumn is the perfect time to indulge in a tasty selection of rich, lively reds and crisp white wines; this mixed case is perfect for this, and comes with the seal of approval from the Spectator's very own wine critic: Jonathan Ray. A selection of wines which celebrate the "mellow fruitfulness" of the Autumn, it's our very own Keatsian ode to this magical season and the upcoming festive period. 

The 2022 Forge Mill Bush Vine Chenin Blanc is an extremely easy-going example of South Africa’s favourite grape. It might not have great complexity but, produced in Swartland by the much-admired cooperative at Riebeek-Kasteel – 80km north east of Cape Town and one of the oldest towns in South Africa – it’s delightfully quaffable with plenty of lively, luscious fruit and a creamy yet fresh, mineral finish.

The 2022 Stadlmann Gruner Veltliner from Traiskirchen, 30 km south of Vienna, is a lovely wine from a winery founded in 1780 and greatly admired by the likes of Hugh Johnson, Stuart Pigott and Uncle Bob Parker. Eighth-generation Johann Stadlmann has produced an exemplary GV, with fresh apple, touch of zesty citrus and a slight saltiness on the finish.

The 2022 Vega Badenes Tempranillo/Merlot/Syrah is undemanding fare, and none the worse for it. A blend of grapes drawn from 20-year-old Bodegas Isidro Milagro’s many vineyards in La Rioja, it’s rich, ripe and juicy with lots of red and dark berry fruit backed by well-crafted tannins and acidity. Slosh it into jugs and serve it at long rambling lunches.

The 2022 Lamura Nero d’Avola is similarly uncomplicated. From Trento-based Casa Girelli’s Sicilian vineyards, it’s made from organically grown fruit which undergoes malolactic fermentation and sees no oak, thus retaining the vibrant innate freshness of Nero d’Avola. Succulent and plummy, with a hint of something savoury, it’s charmingly gluggable. 

If, like me, you’ve been priced out of Burgundy, the 2021 Horizon De Bichot Pinot Noir should be right up your street. Produced by Maison Albert Bichot – one of the great names of Burgundy, founded in 1831 – using grapes from across southern France, it’s a cunning way to get a bit of Burgundian expertise at an acceptable price. With bright, lively cherry fruit, soft tannins and a touch of spice, it slips down very easily. 

Finally, the 2020 Famille Vincent Morgon ‘Les Charmes’ a Beaujolais of some style produced in Les Charmes (one of the six lieux dits of Morgon) by the Vincent family, based at the 15th-century Château-Fuissé, in the heart of Pouilly-Fuissé, for over 150 years. Made from 100 per cent Gamay and matured in oak, it’s traditional in style with plenty of intense, concentrated, fleshy red fruit and a slightly earthy finish. It’s ready now but will age well if given the chance.